Apparel Construction from A to Z: Underlining

For many of us, underlining is what you do for book titles and what automatically happens when you link text in a post. In fashion, that type of underlining is used, when needed, for spec sheets and other written reports within the industry. In apparel construction, underlining has an entirely different meaning.

What is Underlining?

Underlining is simply a fabric that is sewn together with the face fabric of a garment. It is typically a solid color, plain weave fabric.

Why Do You Use Underlining?

In a nutshell underlining is used to give bring balance to very lightweight or sheer fabrics. If you have a fabric that is too lightweight or is very drapey, an underlining fabric will add weight and improve how the garment hangs after it is constructed.

For sheer fabrics, underlining prevents the inner construction of a garment from being seen. Underlinings also add modesty to sheer fabrics, preventing your private bits or underwear from showing.

How is Underlining Sewn?

Underlining is cut into the same garment sections or pieces that your face fabric is. You can either pin or baste the underlining to the face fabric, then sew your garment as normal. Yes, the underlining fabric and face fabric are sewn as one unit.

Additional Sources:
Understanding Underlining
15 Ways to Master Lining, Underlining, Facing and Interfacing

Main Image Credit: Frazer Harrison 2014 Getty Images

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