Apparel Construction from A to Z: Pin Tucks

I love pin tucks. The way they accent a garment is beautiful to me. However, they are my sewing nemesis. I have never designed a garment with pin tucks in it that I have had to sew myself. My bucket list is to design a garment with pin tucks in it that I will complete from concept to finished garment.

What are pin tucks?

Pin tucks are the smaller, skinnier cousin of tucks. Where pin tucks are concerned they look more like a tiny pinch was taken from the fabric and was extended out and is sewn together. From afar, pin tucks and accordion pleats look alike. The visible stitching is how you will be able to tell them apart.

How Can Pin Tucks Be Sewn?

There are technically two ways to sew a pin tuck, which is by hand or machine. By hand, sewing a pin tuck can be tedious and it takes a great amount of skill and dexterity to create evenly spaced and straight pin tucks by hand.

Pin tucks are best sewn by machine. The easiest and best way to sew a pin tuck is with a pin tucking foot. This special sewing machine foot has grooves in it that help keep the pin tuck straight while sewing and aid in evenly spacing your pin tucks. If you do not have a pin tucking foot you can use a zipper foot. However, this takes some finesse. I recommend getting that pin tucking presser foot.

Do All Pin Tucks Look the Same?

Contrary to popular belief pin tucks do not have to vertical or straight. You can create pin tucks that go in any direction. Your pin tucks can even create a pattern. They can even be curved. Don't feel like you are stuck with one way to use pin tucks in a garment.

Main Image Credit: Neiman Marcus via NM Press Room

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